Sunday, January 29, 2012

Balancing the scales with an adapted chocolate chunk recipe

It makes me happy when a baking recipe has ingredient weights so I can use my scale* for accurate and neat measurement.  It's so much easier to add ingredients by putting the mixing bowl onto the scale, pressing the tare button, and then adding what I need, instead of getting out (and dirtying) multiple measuring cups (especially when the ingredient is something gooey or messy items like oil, molasses and honey**).  However, I haven't been good about making the recipes on this blog scale-compatible.  

The recipe below is a first attempt to start balancing the scales of talk and action.  It is an adaptation of one of my favorite recipes in the family of chocolate chunk cookies, one that has a bit of wheat germ and oats for heartiness and flavor. The display format is somewhat of a hybrid because of the futility of giving weights for quantities as small as a teaspoon and the quantum nature of eggs (note that the egg is specified as "1 large", not as a weight or volume).

For more scale love, visit items by David Lebovitz, Alice Medrich and Fahrad Manjoo at the New York Times.





Recipe:  Hearty Chocolate Chunk Cookies


Ingredients:
Metric / weight Non-metric / volume
Unsalted butter 110 g 1/2 c.
Light brown sugar 100 g 1/2 c.
White sugar 100 g 1/2 c.
 
Egg 1 large 1 large
Vanilla extract 5 mL 1 t.
 
Baking powder 5 mL 1 t.
Table salt 2.5 mL 1/2 t.
White flour 100 g 3/4 c.
Raw wheat germ 20 g 1/4 c.
Quick oats 100 g 1 c.
Rolled oats 40 g 1/2 c.
 
Dark chocolate, chopped 85 g 3 ounces
Milk chocolate, chopped 55 g 2 ounces

Optional additions: walnuts, almonds, raisins, dried cherries, coarse salt

(Unit conversion page)

Method:
Preheat the oven to 350 °F (175 °C).

Mix the dry ingredients (but not the chocolate) together in a bowl.

Chop the dark and milk chocolate into pieces that are slightly larger than standard chocolate chips. It is not easy to do this; don't worry if the pieces are randomly sized, that is one of the charms of these cookies (a.k.a. chocolatey randomness).

Combine the butter and sugars in a bowl. If using a stand mixer, use the paddle attachment. Beat together until the mixture is light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and vanilla.

Add the dry ingredients to the bowl, and mix together on low speed until the dough is mixed. Add the chocolate and optional ingredients. Mix on low speed for a short time to combine.

Bake for 10-15 minutes on greased or lined cookie sheets. After removing sheets from the oven, let the cookies cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack.



* For what it's worth, I have used an Escali P115 for years and am quite happy with it.
** To adapt recipes on the fly, I keep a list of ingredient weights on scraps of paper on my refrigerator, adding items as needed.


Random link from the archive: Rise and Fall, Hit and Miss

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Multi-grain mix jazzes up rice bowl

One of the many useful things I learned from Elizabeth Andoh's outstanding "Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen", was the concept of enhancing a batch of white rice — nutrion-wise and taste-wise — by adding a variety of grains and seeds to the uncooked rice and water. You can easily customize your own blend by hunting and pecking in the bulk food section. Or, in some markets, you can buy a pre-made mix in large or small packets.  Andoh favors one from Japanese markets that contains buckwheat groats, white poppy seeds, black rice, a type of millet (awa) and flat barley (hato mugi).  In the early months of Washoku experimentation, I made my own blend with whatever was around the pantry. More recently, I have spotted packages at markets in San Francisco's Japan Center, but haven't purchased them, as the cost is somewhat high and they are imported from Japan.

I ran across a better alternative to either option while browsing in the Koreana Plaza in Oakland: the "Sukoyaka 8 Grain Mix",  a blend of domestically-grown grains that includes sprouted brown rice, hulless barley, rye berries, whole oats, red rice, purple/black barley, wild rice and bamboo rice.

Following their recommendation of 1/2 cup of grain mix with 2 cups of well-washed short-grain white rice creates a hearty, interesting bowl of grain that makes an excellent accompaniment to Japanese dishes (a short video showing an efficient way to wash rice is at the Japanese Food Report).

Or, the hearty rice can be the base for a mixed-up rice bowl like bibimbap, the classic Korean mixture of rice, vegetables, a spicy sauce called gochujang, and various other items (like meats, pickles, or a fresh-cracked raw egg that cooks in the hot rice).  With the rice mix, a tub of kim chi, a fresh bag of soybean sprouts (one of the fundamental flavors in a good bibimbap, in my opinion), and a bunch of vegetables, I got to work.  First, start soaking the whole-grain mix and wash the short-grain rice (presoaking the whole grains will ensure they are cooked without overcooking the white rice).  Then start sauteing the vegetables in batches in toasted sesame oil (another key Korean flavor for me).  Cook the rice.  Finally, fill a bowl with hot rice, make piles of the just-cooked item, garnish with toasted nori and mix well.

Students of bibimbap will notice a significant omission in those last few sentences:  the hot sauce called gochujang.  Although I love the savory sauce, I'm not very tolerant of chilies these days, so I had to omit it. Since the sauce is much more than just a chili infusion — it's a fermented paste made from soybean powder, glutinous rice powder, ground chilies and other ingredients, with the fermentation process bringing out plenty of umami — I wonder if it would be possible to make a mild version at home (if not, Japanese barley miso might be a decent substitute).  Do any readers know of a recipe that might be amenable to a dialed down heat level?




Recipe Sketch:  Ersatz Bibimbap

Ingredients:
  • Rice 
  • Toasted sesame oil
  • Carrots, shredded in long strips
  • Soybean sprouts
  • Shiitake mushrooms (dried or fresh), sliced into strips
  • A leafy green vegetable like spinach or mustard greens, washed well and chopped
  • Tofu (the firmer the better), cut into bite-size pieces
  • Sake
  • Soy sauce
  • Toasted nori sheets
  • Korean hot chili-bean sauce (gochujang)

Preparation:
  • Start cooking the rice
  • If using dried shiitake mushrooms, rinse them and then cover with hot water to soften.  After 15 minutes, remove mushrooms and strain the soaking liquid to use in another recipe.
  • In a non-stick pan, saute shredded carrots in some roasted sesame oil.  Remove to a bowl.
  • If using fresh mushrooms, saute sliced shiitake mushrooms in sesame oil in the same non-stick pan, adding some sake when they are tender, letting it evaporate, then adding some soy sauce and turning off  the heat.  Remove to a bowl.
  • In the same pan, add some more oil and when hot, toss in some chopped greens, stir, add a little water, turn down the heat and cover.   When tender, remove to another bowl.
  • Give the pan a quick rinse and wipe, then saute some drained tofu on all sides until golden brown.
  • In a pot of boiling water, blanch a handful of soybean sprouts for a minute then rinse under cold water.  Chop into 1" lengths.

Garnishes:
  • Top with toasted nori sheets, broken into pieces
  • Korean hot chili-bean sauce (gochujang)


Serving:
  • Fill a warm bowl with hot rice
  • Add the prepared ingredients and garnishes, stir well

(For a more formal bibimbap recipe, visit the Korea Tourism Organization or consult just about any book about Korean cooking.)



Random link from the archive: Homemade crackers

Saturday, January 07, 2012

Insects are a delectable topic for editors and bloggers

Photo of grasshopper from Suneko's flickr collection via CC
Entomophagy — the practice of eating insects* — seems to be quite a delectable topic for bloggers and editors of magazines and newspapers, with numerous mainstream publications featuring articles on the subject in recent months. Typically the articles follow a pattern that includes profiling someone that raises or cooks insects for human consumption, talking about their potential as a protein source in a resource-limited world, and then some anxiety-filled prose about the author's first encounter with insects on their dinner plate.

Before I get to a collection of links, an article by Sarah Schmidt in Heifer International's World Ark that deserves a special shout out because it has a different focus. Although she has most of the elements of a standard entomophagy piece, Schmidt looks at some positive developments around insects as food in the developing world.  She notes that although many cultures around the world traditionally eat insects (I would guess that more cultures eat insects than don't), the people who run food programs — bureaucrats in the United Nations from Europe and other industrialized countries — generally don't eat insects, and thus are potentially ignoring a source of affordable and culturally acceptable food. To change this, the UN Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) has started including programs on insect raising in their portfolio**:
The FAO first became interested in edible insects about eight years ago when its researchers were studying the Central African bush meat crisis—steep declines in animals traditionally used for meat as a result of deforestation and unsustainable hunting practices. "One revelation was that up to 30 percent of the people's protein intake during the rainy season comes from insects," explained Paul Vantomme, a researcher for the UNFAO's Forestry Department. "Yet insects were, and still are, completely ignored in all of the international discussions of the bush-meat crisis." Vantomme began to look into the issue in depth and in 2004 published a study on the role of mopane worms as a food source in the Congo Basin.
The worms, the caterpillar of the Emperor moth, thrive in the forest during the region's three-month rainy season; women and children gather them by hand from trees or the ground. Gram for gram, they're higher in both protein and fat than meat or fish and are also rich in calcium, niacin and riboflavin. They can be stewed, fried or ground into nutrient-rich flour. In Central Africa, local people often make the flour into pulp to be given to children to combat malnutrition or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. They're also an important source of extra income for rural families. One study from Botswana found that the mopane worm generates about 13 percent of household income for rural families but accounts for only about 6 percent of the labor output. Rural people often sell them to traveling merchants, who then sell them at urban markets.
A potential issue with this program is that the above-mentioned worms are gathered from the forest – i.e., taking advantage of nature’s bounty – making them vulnerable to overharvesting just like fish or animals***.  With this in mind, a significant challenge for a program like the FAO’s is to make the transition from gathering to farming.  Initiatives in places like Laos – where the FAO is giving out "starter kits" for cricket farms that consist of insects or eggs, a supply of appropriate feed, and a 3-foot-wide concrete cylinder that serves as the 'farm.'  If the programs in the Congo Basin and Laos are successful, how long will it be before Heifer’s gift catalog includes a kit for mopane worms, crickets, or another culturally appropriate and feasible insect crop?

Here are some of the articles I ran across recently along with short summaries:
  • SF Weekly: “Bug Me: San Francisco Helps Pioneer Insect Cuisine” was the cover story in the October 19 edition, and one of the better articles I've read. In the following weeks, the weekly printed thoughtful letter to the editor from a professor emeritus from UAB. (Warning: unstoppable animation on the web page.)
  • Business Week:  a quick look at several entrepreneurs trying to build businesses that produce insects as a food source. There is plenty of room for scaling and innovation, as food-grade insects are surprisingly expensive (one company, World Entomophagy, sells its product for as much as $40 per pound).  There is also plenty of room for adaptation and updating of regulations.  How does one raise "organic" crickets for human consumption? How about if you want to feed the crickets to chickens that you want to certify as organic?  Is any agency even able to certify an insect farm as organic? 
  • Triple Pundit: the author recounts a first-hand experience with insects at Guelaguetza restaurant in Los Angeles, followed by a run-down of the potential and challenges related to entomophagy.
  • Los Angeles Times travel section:  A review of some entomophagic practices in Cambodia that include crickets, locusts and spiders. Some spiders are so desirable that some worry whether they could be hunted to extinction.  
  • Grist.org:  1) a video from The Perennial Plate with entomophagy expert David Gracer (who sounds a bit like a mellow Chris Traeger [brilliantly played by Rob Lowe] from the often hilarious Parks and Recreation. Consequently, I kept expecting him to say something Tragerian like “That fried walking stick is literally the greatest thing I have ever eaten, and your hospitality truly warms my heart.”) and 2) inclusion on the Grist 2011 trend report – insects as food joins such items as swapping, new kinds of CSAs, and fermenting on this year’s list.

Notes
* When applied to food for humans, the term “insect” generally breaks the biological boundaries placed on the term (i.e., six legs, a member of the Insecta class, etc.) and includes arachnids like spiders and scorpions, and myriapods like centipedes and millipedes.     
** I haven’t seen a single-word term that describes the controlled raising of insects for human consumption.  Plant raising is "agriculture”, fish farming is “aquaculture,” so should we call insect/spider/scorpion farming “arthro-culture”?  Or have sub-groups for each category like "insectculture," "arachnid-culture" and so on?
*** Speaking of insect hunting, "My Life as a Turkey" from PBS Nature has some superb footage of the turkey family hunting grasshoppers.  The whole program is a gem, with a compelling story and excellent camera work (the shot of a snake drinking water that collected in a leaf is magical).


Photo Credit
Grasshopper photo from Suneko's flickr collection, subject to a Creative Commons License.


Random link from the archive: Grapefruit vs. Gasoline: Elasticity Illustrated

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Panel provides glimpses into the wonderful world of bees


Honey bee (Apis melifera) visiting Pride of Madiera (Echium candicans)
Bees are amazing creatures, with their complex societies and unparalleled ability to pollinate plants*, so I like to learn about them when I can. One such opportunity recently was at a panel discussion about bees at Sonoma State University's Insectpalooza. Sitting on the panel were three experts on European and California native bees: Dr. Eric Mussen an extension apiculturist from UC Davis, Dr. Gretchen LeBuhn from San Francisco State University (professor of entomology, founder and director the Great Sunflower Project, a citizen-science project focused on native bees), and Marissa Ponder, a researcher in Professor Gordon Frankie's lab at UC Berkeley.

The bulk of the presentations were not about the European honey bee (Apis melifera), which is probably what most of us picture when we hear the word “bee” (I know that I do), but instead were on California’s native bees, which are found in about 1,500 different species.  Beyond their role as pollinators, most native bees differ in many ways from honey bees, most notably that they live solitary lives and do not make honey**.

Large black bee (a female of a Xylocopa species?) visiting wisteria

Current Thinking on Collapsing Colonies
Mussen talked mostly about European honey bees and the history and current status of colony collapse disorder (CCD).  He noted that the current CCD is not the first time we've seen this – there was one that lasted about a year in the late 1800s, and one that lasted for 3 years in the mid-1960s.  So, he asked, why has this one has been going on for 7 years?  Mussen theorized that today's beekeepers are better at nursing sick bees, thus the weak hives stick around longer instead of quickly dying off.

Among the interesting figures he presented included:
  • An average honeybee has a foraging range of 4 miles, which gives a colony a 50 square mile area to collect food – or to get into trouble with poisons and pests.
  • California has 780,000 acres of almond trees that require 1.5 million colonies of honeybees for pollination.  But California has only about 0.5 million colonies, so 1 million are trucked in for the season (a 2006 article in the Agricultural and Resource Economics Update claimed that 60% of the nation's bee colonies are used to pollinate almonds in California during blossom season). 

The “Professionals”
Dr. LeBuhn focused on the native bees, enhancing her presentation with beautiful illustrations by local illustrator Noel Pugh (examples of his work are at the Great Sunflower Project and will soon be seen in a book due to be published in 2012).  She started with some numbers:  there are about 30,000 bee species in the world, 4,000 in the U.S. and 1,500 in California.

Then she got into morphology and behavior, noting that other creatures besides bees pollinate plants – beetles, moths, hummingbirds are a few – but they are "amateurs", while bees are "professionals." Bees have characteristics that improve their efficiency:  special hairs to collect pollen, an electrostatic charge on their body that attracts pollen, and specialized mouth parts to reach into flowers.  Additionally, some plants need buzzing at a certain frequency to release the pollen, and bees can generate many frequencies.  As an example, LeBuhn mentioned that tomatoes release their pollen when excited by tone of 261 Hz (middle C), so one can place an excited middle C tuning fork near a tomato blossom to cause a pollen drop.

While European honey bees are generalists, visiting any flowers they can find, many California natives are specialists, preferring one species of plants for pollen, but visiting others to get nectar.  Another important difference between European honey bees and natives is that most native bees are solitary, building nests in tunnels underground, or in a hole in a tree, or inside of a stem. Inside the nest you would find several chambers, each with one or more balls of pollen inside and an egg placed on top of one of the balls of pollen.  Carpenter bees, for example, make walls that are like particle board to separate the chambers.

Native bees spend most of their life underground as an egg or larva, perhaps 46-48 weeks underground and 2-6 weeks above ground.

Two small bees feeding on onion flower
Native Bees Live in the City
Marissa Ponder, a researcher in the Professor Gordon Frankie lab at UC Berkeley, talked about native bees in urban and suburban environments, and enhanced her presentation with stunning photos by Rollin Coville.  One of Frankie’s projects has been a test garden on the UC Berkeley Oxford tract at the edge of downtown Berkeley to get a sense of native bee diversity in a highly urbanized environment.  In a small garden, surrounded by concrete and buildings, his team counted 85 species of native bees.  This result – which I find to be amazing – is not so unusual, as Ponder’s other examples illustrated, like a front yard in another city (the name of which was illegible in my notes), in which researchers counted 68 species.

But despite these examples of diversity, people with gardens and yards can give a helping hand to native bees by avoiding “mulch madness” and landscaping with native plants.  Most native bees (about 70%) are ground nesters, desiring bare, uncovered earth for nesting.  Mulch gets in their way, as do lawns.

Ponder talked about some research on native bee plant preference. The researchers found that plants from South Africa, Australia, Central and South America are largely ignored by native bees, while a native like the California poppy will be visited by native bumblebees, sweat bees, and also non-native honey bees.  I don’t doubt that research, but will note that the non-native wisteria on the front and back of my house are swarming with several species of bumble bees (most likely natives) when the flowers are in bloom, and when I had a blooming onion flower it was popular with natives as well as European honey bees. The rosemary plants at my office, however, only seems to attract honey bees, but that might be because the landscape managers at office parks love to cover any non-grassy ground with mulch and so the native bee population is low.

Many more bee-helping tips can be found at the Urban Bee Gardens project website.  In addition, the Yerba Buena Nursery has compiled a list of which bees visit which plants.  If you want to help bees on a larger scale, check out Your Garden Show (warning: autostarting video), an on-line community that is helping to get supporters for the Highways Bee Act, H.R. 2381, a bill that would promote pollinator-friendly practices on highway rights-of-way while also saving states money through reduced mowing.


* An incredible fraction of fruit, nut and vegetable crops need assistance from bees.  One study, “The Value of Honey Bees as Pollinators of U.S. Crops in 2000” from Cornell University (March 2000, PDF), estimated that almost $15 billion in crop value can be directly associated with honey bee pollination. A number of crops, including almonds, avocados, cranberries and onions are fully dependent on insect pollination (with the vast majority of those services provided by honey bees).  Where bee populations have been wiped out, like in China's southern Sichuan province, some farmers are trying to pollinate fruit trees by hand, as a 2007 episode of Nature called Silence of the Bees showed (the human-pollinator segment starts at 38:51).

** Only one other bee makes honey, that's a stingless bee that is native to Central and Southern Mexico. Covered by Bayless in Episode 12 of Season 5 of Mexico—One Plate at a Time. The bees don't sting, but that doesn’t mean you can go mucking around their hives to take their honey (which is used in the Yucatan to make a liqueur called Xtabentún). If you do, you’ll discover that they defend the hive by swarming the attacker and going into eyes, ears, mouth, and nose.


Random link from the archive: Save the Basil! A Tip to Keep it Fresh

Saturday, November 05, 2011

OPENeducation celebrates Chez Panisse's dedication to edible education

Some birthday parties are enlivened by a clown, a magician, or a karaoke machine. But when an legendary restaurant like Chez Panisse hits 40 in a creative city like Berkeley, California, you can expect something out of the ordinary.

A group called OPENrestaurant provided plenty of surprise and wonder at a party called OPENeducation, where attendees could experience the unexpected, like eating an edible shoe, eating chapati made with flour from a bicycle-powered flour mill, learning about "pre-hippie" bread baking ("Digger Bread," loaves that were baked and distributed for free by the San Francisco Diggers in the late 1960s), and listening to activists delivering their words from the roof of a decomissioned police car. Small radios were scattered around the venue, often playing music, but now and then broadcasting an interview conducted by children (interview subjects included Alice Waters). The education sessions were often led by students from local schools, and so the students became the teachers, ideally giving them a confidence boost. Edible education is one of Chez Panisse founder Alice Waters' passions, and the Chez Panisse Foundation was instrumental in establishment and operation of the first Edible Schoolyard in at a middle school in Berkeley, and also a key supporter of the healthy lunch initiative in the Berkeley Public Schools (how they cook in Berkeley schools was comprehensively covered by The Slow Cook in 2010).  

Police Car Stage Recalls Free Speech Movement 
One of the more traditional educational approaches was at the "police car stage," where interviewers and subjects stood or sat on the car — an homage to the October 1, 1964 protests that kicked off Free Speech Movement of 1964-65 (photos from the day are at calisphere: Mario Savio, Jack Weinberg and more), a movement that had an influence on Alice Waters and others who were part of the early days of Chez Panisse and Berkeley's "Gourmet Ghetto" in the late 60s and early 70s.

Twilight Greenaway, Grist's new food editor, kicked off the program with interviews of three activists:
  • Enosh Baker is Northern California Regional Director of CoFed, an organization that seeks to create food cooperatives on university campuses. Among those already in operation, Baker recommended the coops at UC Berkeley and the University of Maryland as excellent examples to learn from. He expects to have a busy 2012, as the United Nations has declared 2012 as the International Year of Cooperatives.
  • Mei Ling Hui is the urban agriculture coordinator and also works on urban forests at the San Francisco Department of the Environment (SF Environment). Her group is starting an urban orchard program in the city. Fittingly, since trees sequester carbon, the initiative is partially supported by the city's carbon fund, an account that is filled by internal levies on such activities as city employees flying for official business.
  • Temra Costa, author of the book "Farmer Jane: Women Changing the Way We Eat" and operator of farmerjane.org, got into the Free Speech Movement spirit by figuring out how to use the bullhorn and still be heard by the crowd (she pointed the bullhorn at the interviewer's microphone). She told the crowd about some of the women featured in her book and website.
Next, Jen Maiser from Eat Local Challenge interviewed Kyle Cornforth, director of the Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley. Kyle has been at the Edible Schoolyard for 11 years, and has seen how the program has evolved. For example, it took many years for the garden soil to recover from being covered with asphalt for many years. Additionally, the kids get to remake the garden each year, so the beds and planting areas have gone through many transformations. Kyle announced that the Chez Panisse Foundation will soon be changing its name to the Edible Schoolyard Project (it appears that the change has been made). They are also building a new website that will have lots of resources and "potential for sharing" for those who want to establish a school garden or improve one that is already running.  

Foot in Mouth
Although only marginally related to the theme of education, a pair of edible shoes was the highlight for me. The shoes — handmade from untanned pig skin from a Chez Panisse pork supplier (Magruder Ranch, on Facebook) by San Francisco's Al's Attire— were at the event to pay homage to the 1980 film Werner Herzog Eats His Shoe. Herzog 'ordered' this unenviable entree by losing a bet with filmmaker Errol Morris: if Morris would quit procrastinating and complete his feature film, Herzog would eat his shoe in public. After Morris completed the film ("Gates of Heaven"), it was time for dinner. Fortunately for us, local filmmaker Les Blank captured the cooking, eating, and subsequent interview with Herzog on film, including footage of the shoe stewing at Chez Panisse, with Alice Waters helping Herzog give his shoe the proper treatment.  ("Werner Herzog Eats His Shoe" is one of the extras on the DVD of Blank's "Burden of Dreams," a documentary about the making of Herzog's "Fitzcarraldo" in the jungles of South America.)

At OPENeducation at least one shoe was used as flavoring in a Provencal soup of zucchini, green beans, tomatoes and other vegetables topped with pounded basil, garlic and Parmesan cheese.

All in all, OPENeducation was a superbly organized celebration with plenty of variety — both culinary and intellectual — in a conveniently compartmentalized venue that allowed multiple classes to be in session at the same time without conflict. The breadth of educational approaches at the event and their focus on youth-led demonstrations should be an inspiration to anyone planning a food festival.  

24/7 Chez Panisse
In the weeks leading up to the 40th birthday, the food media in the Bay Area was all Chez Panisse, all the time. You couldn't swing a bunch of heirloom cardoons on the internet or at the newspaper stand without hitting something related to the birthday. There were remembrances, commentaries about the restaurant's impacts, radio call-in shows and much more. The Berkeleyside blog has a roundup of some of the coverage and an extensive list of links.


Random link from the archive:  Wild Mushroom Souffle

Sunday, October 02, 2011

Random Updates and Notes

Burdock ‘eviction’:  After just over 3 months since I moved some burdock seedlings into their towers, it is time to start evicting them.  In recent days, the leaves on one of them have faded away, so that was the one I pulled first.  It wasn’t easy, as the root turned out to be 17 inches long.  This particular root will be simmered in sake tonight and served as a side dish (recipe from Chez Panisse alumna Victoria Wise in The Vegetarian Table:  Japan).  I don’t have plans yet for the other six roots beyond a recipe in Elizabeth Andoh’s Kansha that pairs the root with shirataki noodles.

 
Insects as FoodOne of my favorite posts in the Mental Masala archive is an exploration of why Americans and Europeans refuse to eat insects even though most of the rest of the world does. Although not favored for dining, it seems that insect eating (entomophagy) is an attractive subject for editors, journalists, and bloggers, so articles are fairly frequent.  For example, an article in the August 15th New Yorker by Dana Goodyear was entertaining and informative, if a bit superficial – nothing, for example, about the logistics of raising insects as food or how they would be processed.  Other recent insect news has been more event driven.  SF Weekly reported that La Oaxaqueña Bakery & Restaurant in San Francisco that was serving chapulines (grasshoppers) received a demand from the health department demanding that they cease offering the food until they can find a domestic source or FDA-approved vendor in Mexico.  Inside Scoop SF had an announcement about a chance to legally eat insects in the Bay Area, an upcoming dinner called “Edible Insects & Other Rare Delicacies: An Insect and Mezcal Pairing Dinner Presented by Monica Martinez of Don Bugito.”  It takes place October 27 at the Headlands Center for the Arts in Sausalito.  

Chez Panisse 40th Birthday:   Over the last few weeks in the Bay Area, especially San Francisco and the East Bay, it was all Chez Panisse, all the time. You couldn't swing a bunch of heirloom cardoons on the internet or at the newspaper stand without hitting something related to the 40th birthday. There were remembrances, commentaries about the restaurant's impacts, new book releases, and much more. Someone with a lot of patience at the Berkeleyside blog posted a roundup of some of the coverage with an extensive list of links during the main buzz of activity. Forum on KQED radio had a program commemorating the event that began with an interview with Alice Waters (severely marred by a low-quality phone connection), and then went into a discussion with Charlie Hallowell (ex-Chez Panisse, now chef and owner of Pizzaiolo and Boot and Shoe Service in Oakland), Russell Moore (ex-Chez Panisse, now chef and owner of Camino in Oakland) and Michael Bauer (executive food and wine editor and restaurant critic for The San Francisco Chronicle).  During the conversation, Hallowell raised a great point that bears sharing: although Alice Waters didn't set up multiple outposts of Chez Panisse around the country and world like many star chefs do, she has been indirectly franchising her vision.  Many people have worked at Chez Panisse and then left to start other restaurants (this Family Tree from Eater SF gives a sense of the impact, as does an article by Tracey Taylor that was published in the Financial Times) or to write books (including Deborah Madison, Victoria Wise and David Lebovitz), thereby spreading the gospel of Chez Panisse far better than outposts in New York and Las Vegas could.
 
Okara sighting: Back in December, I wrote about okara, a fibrous by-product of the soy milk-making process.  I mentioned that Hodo Soy Beanery gives or sells their okara to local livestock operations, but didn’t give any specifics.  A recent newsletter from CUESA closes that loop with a note that a local operation called Magruder Ranch is using okara:  "The pigs can’t survive on forage alone, and Magruder Ranch has found several sources for local feed. About half of their diet is okara, a byproduct of tofu making, which the ranch picks up from Hodo Soy Beanery in Oakland on the return trip from the slaughterhouse." Incidentally, Magruder Ranch raised the pig that provided the skin used to make edible shoes for one of the Chez Panisse celebrations (for the story behind the edible shoes, take a look at the same photo in my Flickr account).



Water works:  A few years ago, after taking a trip to Singapore and Indonesia, I wrote a post about why I would not be buying any carbon offsets. Instead, I pledged to make donations to action groups like 350.org and a group that works on clean water issues (Indonesia has relatively poor clean water infrastructure). Since that post, I have made donations to the UNICEF Tap Project and charity: water, two organizations that work around the world to help people get access to clean and safe water. If there are other groups that are doing great work on clean water, please let me know in the comments.

Soy history: I recently finished Sam Fromartz's Organic, Inc., an engaging book that should be read by anyone who wants to understand where the organic foods industry came from.  Fromartz digs into many important subjects like organic strawberry production (touched on by me at the Ethicurean), how salad mix went from Alice Waters' dream to take over the nation's salad bowls, and much more.  In the middle of the book, he gives a thorough history of the natural foods industry's relationship with soy, including the rise of White Wave soy products, how Silk soy milk made it big, and much more.

A ‘killer app recipe’:  That’s what David Lebovitz calls his recipe for candied peanuts, and I agree. They are delicious, addictive, fairly easy to make, and travel well, which makes them a great office or urban wandering snack.  I have been using Trader Joe’s roasted and unsalted peanuts, and adapting the recipe by heating the water/sugar alone until it starts to lightly color, then adding the peanuts.  This, in theory, will keep the already roasted peanuts from getting too dark. I have been adding a tablespoon of honey near the end of the process, then cooking for a few minutes longer to let any water evaporate.

Monday, September 12, 2011

The Inside-Outside Game: Cooking Eggplant Flesh and Skin Separately


Photo of eggplant by jen_maiser on Flickr
Photo of eggplant at the farmers market by Jen Maiser, from her Flickr collection, used with permission.

People often say that the San Francisco Bay Area doesn't really have seasons. Weather-wise, they have a point – we have wet and dry, nothing nearly as dramatic as New England, for example. But for those who obsess about local food, there are scores of seasons, each one marking the appearance and disappearance of certain foods at the farmer’s market. Right now, for example, we are in the midst of eggplant season. Farms like Riverdog, Lucero or Vang have great piles of eggplant – not just the dark purple globe, but varieties that are thin and long, some that are Haas avocado-sized, some that are as tiny as a lime, with colors that include pale green, white, light purple, and white speckled with lavender. When their name is unknown, it’s easy to fall back on a geographical description: Japanese, Philippine, Italian, Thai. For one of my new favorite eggplant recipes, I choose the Japanese type, a slender fruit with an inky purple that is almost approaching black.

Elizabeth Andoh’s latest book, Kansha: Celebrating Japan's Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions contains a pair of recipes that knocked me over the first time I tried it. The underpinning is the Japanese philosophy of ichi motsu, zen shoku, which means one food, used entirely. An example of this philosophy is on the cover of the book and in the introductory text, where Andoh explores the daikon:  the leafy tops can be cooked and tossed with rice; the root section can be divided into three parts, with each section being cooked a different way or made into a pickle;  the peels can be used in soup or in a stir-fry.

The recipe I adapted below is for eggplant – separating the flesh from the skin, cooking each element in a different way, then serving them side by side. The flesh is simmered in some lemon juice, stock and saké; the skin quickly stir-fried in fragrant sesame oil with soy sauce and saké.

The end of eggplant season is not far away, so if you like eggplant and Japanese cuisine, make haste to give this interesting approach a try.

Photo of eggplant duo




Recipe: Eggplant Duo
Adapted from Kansha, by Elizabeth Andoh


This recipe consists of four activities: preparing a pickled plum sauce, readying the eggplant by carefully separating the peel from the flesh, cooking the eggplant flesh, and cooking the eggplant skin.


Pickled Plum Sauce  
Ingredients: 
1 T. mashed pitted uméboshi or plum paste
1 t. white miso (preferably Saikyo)
1-2 t. mizu amé (see notes) or maple syrup
1 t. vegetarian stock (see notes) or cold water

Method:
Pit and mash the uméboshi. Mix with the other ingredients. Taste and adjust with more sweetener if needed (the saltiness or sourness of uméboshi can vary widely between brands). Cover and chill.


Eggplant Preparation
Ingredients:
3 or 4 thin eggplant, preferably Japanese variety, about 10 ounces

Method:
Wash the eggplant and cut off the stem end. With a sharp knife, peel each one from stem end to flower end, making strips of peel that are about 1/8 inch thick (and ideally 3/4 inch wide). Cut the peel strips into matchsticks that are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long and set aside in a bowl.

Cut the flesh into 1/2-inch cubes and set aside.


The Inside 
Ingredients:
The eggplant flesh
1 T. lemon juice
The squeezed lemon shell
1 T. saké
1 T. vegetarian stock or cold water
1 piece kombu, left over from stock making (optional)

Method:
Combine the lemon juice, squeezed lemon shell, stock, and saké in a skillet or sauce pan that is wide enough to hold the eggplant pieces in a single layer. Add the eggplant and toss with the liquid, then arrange in a single layer. If you are using kombu, place it on top of the eggplant as a lid. If not, cover with an otoshi-buta, a lid with a diameter less than the pan, or a circle of parchment paper.

Turn the heat to medium-high. When the liquid starts to bubble, lower the heat to medium-low and cover the pan with a regular lid. Let the eggplant steam for a few minutes until tender. Remove the pan from the heat and let the eggplant cool with the lid in place. If not using immediately after cooling, refrigerate.


The Outside  
Ingredients: 
The eggplant skin
1 t. toasted sesame oil
1 t. sugar
1 T. saké
1 T. soy sauce
1/8 t. kona-zansho (see notes)

Method:
Heat a skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the sesame oil, swirl to coat the pan, and add the peels. Stir fry for about a minute. Distribute the sugar over the peels and stir. Add the saké, stir well, and continue to stir fry until the saké has evaporated. Add the soy sauce and mix well. Remove from the heat. Let the peels cool in the skillet. When cool, sprinkle half of the kona-zansho on top and mix. If not using immediately, refrigerate.

Serving
Prepare individual servings by placing a small mound of the cooked flesh on one side of a small plate or shallow bowl next to a small mound of the cooked skin. Place a small dollop of the plum sauce on the flesh.  Sprinkle the remaining 1/16 t. kona-zansho onto the peels.  Serve at room temperature or chilled.


Ingredient Notes
  • Mizu amé – a thick syrup made from barley (with English language labels often reading “barley malt”).
  • Vegetarian stock – an infusion of kombu seaweed and shiitake mushroom stems (or pieces of mushroom cap). A simple method of making a stock is described at the bottom of this post.
  • Kona-zansho – A powder made from ground berries of the Japanese prickly ash shrub (Zanthoxylum piperitum)


Photo of eggplant at the farmers market by Jen Maiser, from her Flickr collection, used with permission. Photo of eggplant duo by the author.

Eggplant recipes from the Mental Masala archive